Old money aesthetic: rivoluzione di classe

Old money aesthetic: class revolution

With dizzying figures in views on TikTok and Instagram, the Old Money Aesthetic is a well-established trend among Generation Z, who recognize themselves in a luxury and exclusive style, but far from ostentatious. A preppy or college style look that has always been worn by heirs and members of the upper class, who have made this clothing a symbol of belonging; a sign of recognition which however never slips into opulence and always remains in balance between statement and understatement, just to make putting it into practice less obvious. The old money look appears simple and spontaneous but only for those with innate class, physique du role and a rich wallet: fine fabrics and tailored suits are combined nonchalantly with casual garments such as shirts and jeans, but above all with personalized accessories. The latter are essential and make the difference: the knotted silk scarves, the sunglasses with an incisive but not eccentric design, the iconic details of the buckles in the belts and moccasins, the precious buttons on the blazers. All in perfect harmony, with a sexy but not provocative ease. The term Old Money in particular refers to wealthy families for several generations, traditionally coming from US dynasties or European aristocracy, such as the Kennedys, the Windsors, the Spencers, the Grimaldis. In the first case, the American way of life is inspired, with the preppy style, or rather the dress code typical of colleges, such as those of the Ivy League, where high-ranking families hand down positions of honor. In the Old Continent, on the other hand, the reference is mostly to those with noble titles.

The implications in eyewear

For several seasons, vintage has been the object of a great revival in the world of eyewear. Today, however, the trend takes on more precise connotations, with the 60s design imposing itself on the other retro references. References to the Sixties style of the upper middle class and the international jet set are present in the eyewear in the form of enveloping oversized frames, generous ovals, bold fronts and temples or cat eye with accentuated ends. Then refined patterns taken from the archives and glossy colors in classic shades, which suggest a refined but decisive statement: white, blue, black, red and all the shades of Havana.

The brands and icons of reference between yesterday and today

The garments that make up a statement of this style are signed by Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Hermès, to name a few. But the personalization of the look with exclusive and custom details is also essential, especially in the field of accessories and jewellery. Yesterday they were the muses of Hitchcock, Grace Kelly and Tippi Hedren, today their respective nieces (less icy than their grandmothers) Charlotte Casiraghi and Dakota Johnson. Among the classic Old Money icons we find Jackie Kennedy and her daughter-in-law Carolyne Bessette as well as, of course, Lady Diana. Nowadays we instead have Letizia of Spain and Kate Middleton (both of bourgeois origin but with the right acquaintances...) and Kitty Spencer, granddaughter of the late princess. Among the actresses can be mentioned Gwyneth Paltrow, Anne Hathaway, Poppy Delevigne, Emma Watson, Blake Lively and Leigton Meester. It is no coincidence that the last two were the protagonists of the series "Gossip Girl", a TV production from the 2000s set among young people in New York high society, now considered a cult by fans of the Old Money Aesthetic.

The ideological controversy

After the Sexy Aesthetic that has dominated the last few years, the opposite trend is asserting itself, where sensuality is only hinted at, more cerebral. The Old Money trend does not contemplate being provocative but in itself represents, in the eyes of most, a provocation. For what reason? It is a style strongly linked to the WASP aesthetic (acronym of White, AngloSaxon, Protestant) or the white American elite of English origin. Even if, on closer inspection, the main representatives of the Old Mo-ney look were the Kennedys, Catholics of Irish origin. But in the popular imagination certain characteristics correspond to that overbearing and dominant society which has handed down power and wealth for centuries. What makes people turn up their noses today is the thought that it is glamor that passes from generation to generation, as a hereditary fact in which there is no merit or social lift. In reality this is not quite the case, because class remains an innate gift. This apparent lack of inclusiveness and this reversal of aesthetic ideals has been criticized, but the trend does not stop and the recent change of direction of some celebrities demonstrates it. A few months ago Kim Kardashian ignited the controversy by showing up at the MET Gala with the iconic dress worn by Marilyn Monroe on the occasion of John Kennedy's birthday, very thin and with very blond hair. Everything related to the Kardashian sisters always makes the news and becomes the subject of debate due to the enormous influence that the clan exerts on the public, especially when it comes to setting trends and influencing beauty standards. The way the Kardashians dress, make up and their own physicality has a strong impact on the current aesthetic model. That's why the image transformation of Kim, Khloé and the others is surprising, which took place through strict diets, hair bleaching and the alleged elimination of some prostheses that increased curves. In essence, the Kardashians are moving away from a markedly Mediterranean-neo-Middle-Eastern model of beauty and from exhibited sensuality to approach a more sophisticated ideal, more WASP: a reference considered unattainable and dangerous. The risk, according to observers, is that of the glamorization of thinness and extreme pallor, already prevalent in the 1990s and early 2000s. An attitude that would contradict those values ​​of body positivity and mental health in which the fashion industry has tried to recognize itself in recent years, with questionable results. If, on the one hand, an attempt has been made to stem the spread of anorexia, on the other, in fact, a scalpel model of beauty has been promoted which cannot be considered healthy and natural.

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